08/27/01

We did this hike from south to north, starting in Port Renfrew. Many folks, and some books, espouse the virtue of the other direction. I believe its primarily a decision focused around two issues. First, you may be in good shape from previous hiking. If you are, as our group was, we decided to get the harder part of the trek out of the way. Logistically, it was also a little easier to start from the south coming from the Seattle area.

The other issue, tied to the first, is the experience level of the members of your party. Starting with easier hiking in the north at Banfield, a party which is not as experienced in hiking multiple days might wish to work into the tougher part of the hike.

Other than those issues, there doesn't seem to be an appreciable difference in elevation gain, camps, etc. I might add, and this will change from year to year, but our orientation was top notch with several tips given that were helpful. In contrast, in talking to some folks coming from the north, the orientation was less spirited and leaner in content.

The Trek

Day 0: Orientation Day- we were able to catch the Tsawwassen ferry early enough to catch the late orientation (3:30) in Port Renfrew. Early to bed and lots of carbos at the Lighthouse restaurant.

Day 1: Port Renfrew to Camper Creek (13k)- for the masochists out there, this is one long, nasty day depending on the weather. Starting out by catching the 9:10 Gordon river ferry (5 minute crossing), we hit the junction for Thrasher Cove around 1:00. Pumped, and with lots of energy remaining, we continued to Camper Creek arriving around 5:30 in the rain. There are ladders to warm you up and plenty of ups and downs to keep you toasty and the heart rate up. We spotted our first eagle of the trip!

This may be the biggest decision you make in terms of the number of days you take heading either north or south. If this day is broken up, it makes this 13k a lot easier and makes the entire 75k an easy 7 day trip. Our intent was to linger more in the northern section of the trail, so thus we sealed our decision.

Day 2: Camper Creek to Walbran Creek is about 9k. Ladders, ladders, ladders and mud, mud, mud. The first cable car and 1st suspension bridge. This is a tough day. Overcast. We loved the challenge and enjoyed the forest trail.

Day 3: To Cribs Creek. The first few kilometers are mud, mud, mud! (We all love rain forests but don't they ever dry out in summer? The answer is no.)

This turned out to be a sunny day and luckily an early day for us. We are also able to take advantage of the First Nation's food stop just before the Carmanah lighthouse. A scrambled egg sandwich never tasted so good! We also try out beach hiking for the first time since the tides and the weather have conspired to keep us on the trail for the first two days. We make great time on the beach. We see two more eagles today.

Camp is great. We were able to dry everything. There are decent tide pools and great crashing waves as the tide comes in! We meet some great folks from Saskatchewan who we share our beach fire with. (Luckily, my hiking partner is an expert at beach fires.)

Day 4: To Tsusiat Falls and the first opportunity to take a really cold shower. This is a long day and necessitates an early start because we want to start on the beach and need to beat an incoming tide. 16k. We spend half of this day on the beach. We cross the Ninitat river on the ferry around lunch and have our 2nd suspension bridge. We see another eagle and linger at a beautiful arch at one of the headlands. We camp amidst the driftwood and have a devil of a time getting a fire going for some reason. Eric's new pack gets attacked during the night by a mouse in search of food. (We are diligently hanging our food every night except one where a bear box is provided.)

Day 5: To Tsocowis Creek, about 10k. About 2k of this is beach hiking for us and its a short day. As we are approaching Tsocowis, at this point not knowing exactly where we were, I remark what a beautiful beach! Other than the crows that watch our every move and the two eagles perched at the headlands fishing, we have the beach to ourselves for the rest of the day and evening. Its a beautifully sunny afternoon after starting out overcast which is typical for late July/early August. We take the time to clean up again and rinse and wash clothes as necessary.

I have been in earnest search of whales for 2 days now after hearing reports from hikers heading south that they have spotted either Orcas or grays. I have my heart set on grays since I have not yet seen them in the wild. I scan the horizon for 2 hours looking for telltale signs of spouting. Nothing.

Day 6: Our intent is to go a relatively short 5k to Michigan Creek arriving there early enough to beat the crowd starting out from the north and just laying around. However, I have noticed a dropping barometer and we decide to make it a longer day and head all the way to Bamfield a day early if it decides to rain . We hike out on the beach and a couple of hours out it starts to rain in earnest. Our decision is made and we look forward to both real beds tonight and the fudge offered for sale at the Pachena Pt. lighthouse.

So, the day turns into a 17k trek but the hiking, even though most of it is on trail, is easy. We are able to get a couple of kilometers in on the beach including the piece from Darling to Michigan Creek which is the trail. As we are walking along the beach, I am intently looking for whales as I notice what I think is a hump in the water just beyond the kelp...could grays actually be in that close? I point this out to Eric
but am doubting my initial sighting until I see the unmistakable blow of another gray. We have found a small pod and are lucky enough to be moving in the same direction. I think I am as excited as I have been at any other point in the trip. There is a backpacking god!

Having cut the hiking part of our trip short by a day, by the time we get to the trailhead we are too late to try for the van ride back to Port Renfrew. So we call the taxi to head into town. We stayed at the Banfield Trails motel which has a nice pub on site where we did partake of local brews and loads of greasy food which we had dreamed about for several days.

Day 7- We have time to head across the bay to check out the boardwalk (the motel will call the water taxi for you) enjoying a bit of breakfast at the espresso stand. Excellent lattes and cappuccinos I might add. At 1, we are at the motel to catch the van for our 3 hour ride back to Port Renfrew and civilization (paved roads with my own car). Its the end of a great trip and a wonderful adventure!